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torsdag
jul022009

Day 23 - Finish line is reached

Day 23, 26 June
Position: Upernavik

We called Air Greenland and chartered a helicopter to pick us up at 14.00 to bring us down from the glacier. Our GPS is set to show the position in degrees and divide the degrees in normal 10's. The person who took the position at Air Greenland forwarded it to the pilot as a position in degrees, minutes and seconds. This error led to a misunderstanding. When the pilot called us on our satellite phone and asked why we didn't appear at the position we started to smell trouble. After a brief discussion the misunderstanding was cleared and the correct position forwarded as degrees, minutes and seconds. In the mean time the weather had gotten worse. From our position the visible clearing between the ice cap and the clods were small, and it was getting smaller by the minute. The helicopter had to arrive pretty soon if we were to avoid having to wait for a helicopter pick-up on an other day with better visibility.

After some thrilling minutes we could hear the sound of a Bell 212, a helicopter who turned out to sound like a Vietnam movie on steroids. The sound appeared to come from somewhere close, but because of the low visibility ity took some time for us to spot it. Naturally it was easier for us to spot the helicopter than it was for the pilot to see us. When the helicopter started to circle the surrounding areas apparently without seeing us, Hugo started to shoot signal flares in order to attract attention. Six flares later the helicopter landed by our position. It then turned out that the pilot had spotted our big red Hilleberg-tent, but when we took it down it we disappeared.

When we got up in the air it soon turned out that we had chosen the right spot to stop. Only a few hundred meters ahead of us the glacier was covered with crevasses and rivers of melting water. The posted picture shows how the glacier looked like from the helicopter just after take off.

In Upernavik there are no hotels. But through some sweet talking with a nice lady working at the air port we came in contact with a person who was willing to rent us a house. The choice between continuing to live in a tent or get a real bed and a hot shower in a house was a pretty easy one. The posted second pictures shows Upernavik from the air. The picture only covers a part of Upernavik, but still shows about 90 % of all the houses in this nice settlement. "Our" house is one of the red ones to the right in the picture.

We have now showered and changed clothes for the first time in more than 3 weeks. The next few days will be spent to explore this exiting settlement. Our plane back to Norway leaves on 1 July. Bjørn Einar keeps talking about this place being perfect for learning kayaking "the proper way".

 

 

torsdag
jul022009

Day 22 - The day became longer than expected

Day 22, 25 June
Position: N 73,25733 W 54,33915
Wind: 7-14 m/s
Distance covered (day): 226 km

We spent most of the day filming. Got some detail shots which together with the rest of our material could come together to something viewable. By now we have some 12 hours with HD-footage from our trip. At about 20.30 we started sailing west, towards the end of the glacier by Upernavik. For some reason we assumed the distance to be only 120 km. The wind was good and we figured we would cover the distance in about 3-4 hours. But it turned out that the actual distance was about the double. The distance of 120 km turned out to be only to a temporary GPS check-point we used as an aiming point during our previous record attempt. Anyway, we sailed with good power in our kites. After about 90 km we switched to parawings. The wind had by then pick up and we were getting closer to suspected crevasse areas. The parawings' advantage compared to a kite is mainly that the parawing, in addition to be a safer tool in high winds, also enables the user to stop much quicker if necessary. By now it was night, but the midnight sun was high in the sky and the low snow drift was covering the landscape in something resembling a magic carpet. Today's picture shows Hugo struggling with his parasail in strong wind in such environment.

Luckily we never came across any crevasses. When we in the early morning was about 50-60 km from the ocean we noticed a nunatak (a mountain breaking trough the glacier). This was the first mountain we had seen since the start of our trip on the 3 June. The settlement of Upernavik was in the same direction and hence we got ourselves a nice land mark to aim for. On the other hand, nunataks are often surrounded by dangerous crevasses. Consequently we decided to stop some km before we reached it. The distance to the cost was by then 20-30 km. The GPS showed that we then had covered a distance of 226 km in air distance and descended from 2500 m above sea level to 880 m above sea level. The snow conditions were very icy during the last 50 km, and Hugo who had decided to cross the Greenland ice cap on powder skis, would once again learn that those skis are not made for icy conditions. On the other hand we can now clearly notice that our bodies have been toughened and that we now can take longer sailing distances without any stops than we could at the start of our trip.

The plan is now to charter a helicopter and get down to Upernavik, a settlement with some 1300 inhabitants. From there we will get a plane home to Norway.


Addon: When we are sending this update we have reached the civilisation where there are plenty of electricity for our PC. During the last days we have not had sufficient power to send pictures together with the updates. Therefore, this time we are posting three pictures. The other picture shows our GPS after our record break. The GPS was reset about 10 minutes before start and the picture was taken in the tent about 20 minutes after finish. The actual stop time is therefore be a bit shorter than shown on the picture. The third picture shows Bjørn Einar's sledge on the icy surface.

 

 

torsdag
jul022009

Day 21 - Restitution

Day 21, 24 June
Position: N 73,37678 , W 47.46996
wind: ca 6 m/s
Distance covered (day): 0 km

The day was used to relax after yesterday’s record sailing. We are now as far North as Upernavik, which is our end point and the settlement we shall order a helicopter transport to. Yesterday, in order to obtain a better angle to the wind and hence to achieve a better speed, we sailed a more easterly course than initially planned. We now have to sail westward about 120 km towards the end of the glacier before we reach our planned pick-up point. We are planning to cover this distance tomorrow. Today will be restitution and relaxing only.

torsdag
jul022009

Day 20 - New world record

Day 20, 23 June
Position: N 73,37678 , W 47.46996
Wind: 3-12 m/s
Distance covered (day): 518 km - A new world record

Damn, today we covered a long distance!!!

The day started with us still waiting for the wind which should have been here last evening. We had decided to sail as far as possible on 24 hours when the wind conditions and forecasts were good, but because of several days without any wind we had reached our deadline. We now had to sail on whatever wind that came.

The preparation for the night sailing was each of us eating two portions of Real Turmat (dried food) and Hugo telling all of the dirty jokes he had learned in northern Norway.

A few hours into the night the wind came from E/SE, which was the opposite from the forecast. At 03.15 we launched our biggest kites (Libre Speedy II 14 m2 on 60 meter lines). After a short while the wind picked up. When we after a couple of hours had to lay down our kites we measured the wind to more than 10 m/s. On this leg the power in the kites was so formidable that we could not keep our planned course. We were heading in a too much west, a course leading off the glacier to an area with dangerous crevasses.

To kite long distances with a heavy sledge involves having more power in the kite than what one normally is comfortable with. A heavy sledge reduces the speed considerable compared to kiting without a sledge. In order to compensate one have to use bigger kites. The feeling of kiting with so much power can be compared by riding a horse one can not control: You are just not in control of everything. You can partly influence the speed and direction, and you can fight not to fall off. For us this overpowered session gave us a feeling of flying from bump to bump.

The first session was cold. It was minus 20 degrees Celsius in effective temperature (minus 10 in air temperature) and even colder during the kiting. Hugo regretted that he dropped his down jacket during this first leg, but rest assured, the down was like glued on him the rest of the day.

We changed to smaller kites. After 9 hours from start we had covered a distance of 240 km. By now the sun had started to provide a nice warm weather and the dream about breaking the old world record for longest kite distance in 24 hours had started to rise. Our motivation for setting a long record was high.

Because of no available flights from Qaanaaq our end point had to be changed from Qaanaaq to Upernavik. This will reduce the length of our trip by about 800 km. In addition, those last 800 km are expected to be among the areas with the best wind and will under normal conditions provide for sweet and fast kiting. Because of this loss of the “sweet spot” we were especially eager to cover a really long distance in a day within the limited terrain we had available.

The wind dropped in strength and turned into a more southern direction. We could no longer just “park” or kites in the sky and surf on. From now on we had to fly the kites very actively in order to generate more relative wind for the kite. By actively increasing the kite’s speed the kite will pull more and hence generate more power and speed. The down side is that such active flying is more exhausting. We worked in periods of 3 hours with as short breaks in between as possible. Hugo had brought an expensive thermos, but we still had to drink cold coffee and eat cold dried food.

After 12 hours our bodies had started to hurt. Bjørn Einar started to worry about his knees, this despite the fact that he is using knee warmers made by merino wool, neoprene knee support and has fixed cellophane plates on the inside of his trousers in front of his knees. By next break we had to open the medicine cabinet. On a trip like this far away from any medical assistance one have to bring medicines to cover most situations. Bjørn Einar took two painkillers with some more “delicious” ice coffee.

Our cheerful and enthusiastic dreams about world record which had been circulating in our heads just hours earlier was by now reduced to pure and dark will power. We experienced that when our physical excess energy vanished our ability to make positive dreams also disappeared. Our sole focus was now to cover as long distance as possible. As an example of the mental change Bjørn Einar afterwards recalled that he was annoyed about where Hugo flew his kite and where he skied. This despite that it is not exactly lack of space on the ice cap. Besides, Hugo was the one navigating by the GPS and he therefore had to be the one choosing the direction and course ...

After about 16 hours, whereby the last 6-7 hours was very exhausting, the wind dropped even more. We had then covered 380 km. The old 24-hr record was 502 km and 122 km still remained in order to beat it. The wind dropped so much that we feared to loose the record we by then felt we literally had in our pocket. We didn’t mention this to each other, but we both understood that the other was thinking the same. We launched our biggest kites on 60 meter lines and luckily we noticed that there were still wind higher up from the ground. If we didn’t have such long lines we would probably not be able to reach the wind and get going. (A big thank you to Klemet in www.skikite.no for excellent advice on equipment and for special ordering the kites and long lines to us from Germany).

From this moment we had a steady progression until we logged a distance of 518 km. We had then sailed in 22 hours, and we still had two hours left to strengthen our record. Our motivation for sailing the last hours was solely to beat the old world record of 502 km held by Ronny Finsås from his 2008 kite trip on Antarctica from the south pole. When the record was beaten we had no motivation to keep sailing and we gave in for our hurting bodies.

When we put down our kites and knew that the struggle was over relief was the only feeling left in us. But today (the day after) we are back as our old selves bragging and admiring ourselves.

We are now lying on top of our sleeping bags in the tent on 73,4 degrees north. Outside there is a magic midnight sun. The stove is making its calming sound and we have coffee in our cups. Together we are trying to put down yesterdays experience in writing. Now when we recap the whole race it is strange how collective we are in both how we felt during the whole sailing and how big we experience it to be.

 

torsdag
jun252009

Day 19 - Waiting for wind

Day 19, 22 June
Position: N 68,84630, W 46,35719
Wind: Calm
Distance covered (day): 0 km

The meaningless project mentioned in yesterday’s update had to be cancelled due to clouds. Everything was completely white and it was impossible to seen any contrasts in the terrain. The project was stage one in building a snow hotel: A complete snow bar with its natural facilities for sun bathing (sun bed and table). The plan was to habitant the facilities with almost naked sun bathers and equip the bar with what we got of bar interior like bottles etc. (which actually is a lot). Thereafter we should take and post a picture in this update. But, as mentioned, due to the weather conditions the plans had to be cancelled.

According to the weather forecast is was supposed to be a westerly wind from 21.00 local time, but no wind came as scheduled.